12/10/2023 0 Comments Donut county make chef secret recipe![]() Makes 18 doughnuts + 18 doughnut holes (suggested yield for a 3-inch cutter my larger one yielded fewer) Three years ago: Wild Mushroom and Stilton GaletteĪdapted from Lauren Dawson at Hearth Restaurant ![]() The apple cider doughnuts at Hearth, but look below! You can now get them in your own kitchen. The made-to-order, airy yeast doughnuts available at brunch at Back Forty, served with a rotation of dessert sauces (last time was concord grape, swoon). The barely-sweetened petite pistachio doughnut from Balthazar’s bakery. The crème brûlée (like, brûléed and everything!) at the Doughnut Plant on Essex Street. But I’m going to do something uncharacteristic today and just outright admit my five favorite local places to indulge my doughnut habit because it would be a shame to have done as much hip-padding research as I have on the subject and not allow you to share in my doughy discoveries: 1. * My Favorite New York Doughnuts: People often ask me for local eating recommendations but I always dodge these questions because restaurant reviewing, dissecting and generally telling people where to spend their hard-earned money is so not my bag. And the eating… well, faintly spiced, lightly apple scented, perfectly light and crisped at the edges (I do believe the shortening has converted me), oh these are so very worth it, all of it. The dough comes together quickly and the cooking takes less than 15 minutes, beginning to end. You’ll be pleased to know that despite requiring chilling and cutting and deep-frying - something I’m anything but skilled in, which I blame on my Yankee, Jewish upbringing seriously, my people did not deep fry things - these were not hard to make. Sorry baby, mama couldn’t resist.īack to the doughnuts. Which also meant that I had to set out to buy a large quantity of shortening, which meant that I had to pack my son into his stroller for one of our first solo errands together to buy an egregious quantity of trans fats (the store didn’t carry the trans-fat free stuff - the horror! - though it’d be hard to argue that “healthfulness” was my preoccupation). Theory has it that because shortening, unlike oil, is solid at room temperature, once the fried item has cooled, it “seeps” less oil into the stuff around it (think telltale greasy napkins and paper plates) and generally tastes less greasy on the tongue. I had heard a rumor that shortening makes for a fantastic deep-frying agent. Here’s the deal with the shortening, an ingredient I haven’t made any bones about my dislike of (at least in pie crusts and cookies or in any place where it is intended to replace sweet, delicious butter). When I realized that recipe was readily available on the Web, it was a short and slippery path to posing my infant son to a 3-pound tub of trans fats… er, but we’ll get to that in a bit. Although I am sure my timing couldn’t have been worse - you know, with a four week old to take care of, no biggie - I got a hankering something fierce last week for the kind of apple cider doughnut I almost never find around here - save this piping hot and off-the-chart perfect ones Alex and I shared at Hearth this past Valentines Day. Because it’s fall and crunching through ochre-tinted leaves, wrapping your fingers around a paper cup of mulled cider and eating even lackluster apple cider doughnuts is the right and proper thing to do. Despite the fact that even the loveliest looking ones at the farm stands tend to disappoint, I eat them anyway. The exception to this rule is apple cider doughnuts, which I am absolutely weak in the face of. Yet, given that most doughy fried items out there are rather mediocre* - say, the chain donut shop steps from my apartment - I don’t find myself indulging this habit as often as I’d like. I have never met a variety of deep-fried dough I didn’t like.
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